Why It Works
- Mixing gelatin with the panade makes for an especially tender meatball.
- Not browning the meatballs and simmering them only until cooked through keeps the chicken tender and moist.
- A simple, delicately flavored tomato sauce lets the flavor of the meatballs shine through.
Spaghetti and meatballs is a recipe that one just doesn't associate with chicken. Red meats dominate this simple Italian dish, with their hearty flavor and moist, fatty texture. I'd never thought swapping in chicken meat could provide an agreeable alternative—until I started working on this recipe. As I found out, chicken is not only a wonderful alternative, but its lighter characteristics succeed at elevating a simple, rustic dish like spaghetti and meatballs into something a bit more refined.
But that's not to say that chicken doesn't have its own problems. By swapping in chicken, you sacrifice both flavor and texture. Chicken is very mild compared to beef, and because it's more lean, chicken meatballs tend to be dry. Packing ground chicken into meatballs can also result in a pasty texture. I decided to tackle both of these problems (and give myself an excuse to eat a ton of meatballs) by mixing up a few batches of meatballs using a favorite beef meatball recipe and frying up some rounds of meatball tests.
Pack It With Panade
Don't ever hand me a burger with a panade (just tell me it's meatloaf and I'll be just fine). Panade is a mixture of bread and liquid (usually water, milk, or broth) that moistens meatloaf and meatballs, and keeps them from falling apart. Often, an egg is tossed in as well. This was an easy test, as the panade-less packed balls of chicken meat came out as expected: hard, dry and pasty. A panaded chicken meatball is a happy meatball—pleasantly soft and tender. And since the chicken is mild anyway, the panade really doesn't water down the flavor as it can do with beef.
Going for the Gelatin
Ever since we started sprinkling gelatin into meat dishes like stews atCook's Illustrated, I pull out this kitchen trick whenever I can. Used sparingly, gelatin boosts the slick mouthfeel of collagen, a protein found in connective tissue. When slowly cooked, the collagen melts into a velvety texture. In chicken meatballs, a few teaspoons of melted gelatin stirred into the mix work to mimic the gelatin-y, lubricating texture that you get from the extra cartilage in red meats. Combined with the panade, the gelatin helps to shape up ground chicken into an incredibly tender and moist texture.
To Brown or Not to Brown
Whether on the stovetop or in the oven, I've always browned my meatballs before cooking them in sauce. Especially with chicken's milder flavor, I naturally assumed that the crispy browned caramelization would improve the flavor. After wrestling with a splattering batch of soft meatballs sticking to the skillet, I dropped the remaining raw meatballs into the bubbling tomato sauce. Surprisingly, the un-browned meatballs were evenmoretender and flavorful. Browning dries out the outer shell of the meatball, making it tough and unable to soak up adequate flavor from the sauce. Plus, unlike beef, which can become softer and more flavorful after a long cook in the sauce, chicken meatballs are best with a brief, gentle cook. For optimum texture, simmer gently just until cooked through (160°F or 71°C).
When working with chicken, I often try to beat it into submission when substituting it into a dish normally associated with beef. I flavor the heck out of it with everything umami in an attempt to turn it into a mock red meat. This time I allowed the chicken to just hang out and be mellow. Fresh aromatic herbs of parsley and basil, along with a handful of parmesan, are all that's needed here. For the sauce, a thick, all-day simmered pot would simply overwhelm the chicken. Instead, a quickly cooked sauce with chopped basil keeps the whole dish lighter and fresher. Chicken meatballs are a surprisingly delicious variation on the old classic. In addition to topping spaghetti, they also make an excellent meatball sub.
This recipe was originally published as part of the column "Chicken Dinners."
August 2013
Recipe Details
Spaghetti and Parmesan Chicken Meatballs Recipe
Prep10 mins
Cook55 mins
Active60 mins
Total65 mins
Serves4to 6 servings
Ingredients
2 tablespoonshomemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth (or water)
2 teaspoons powdered gelatin, optional (see note)
3 slices white bread (about 3 ounces), untrimmed, grated (see note)
5 tablespoons milk
1 1/2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated, plus extra for garnish
1 large egg
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1 cuploosely packed basil leaves, roughly chopped, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
4 medium cloves garlic, grated (about 4 teaspoons), divided
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, divided
1 pound ground chicken
1 medium onion, minced (about 1 cup)
3 (14-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes
1 pound spaghetti
Directions
Pour chicken broth into a small bowl and sprinkle gelatin over the top. Let sit at least 5 minutes to soften. Place bread in a large bowl and moisten with milk. Stir in cheese, egg, parsley, half of the basil, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon oil, 1 clove garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes until combined.
Heat gelatin mixture in microwave or in a small saucepan until melted and stir into bread mixture. Add chicken and gently mix with hands until just combined. Chill 10 minutes and then, using wet hands or a 1/4-cup ice cream scoop, form into 12 balls.
Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add garlic, cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add remaining 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, and tomatoes (with juice). Bring to simmer and cook 10 minutes to let flavors meld. Season to taste.
Carefully nestle meatballs into the sauce and cover. Simmer until meatballs are just cooked through (160°F or 71°C), about 10 minutes. Sprinkle in remaining chopped basil. Keep warm.
Heat 3 quarts of salted water in stock pot over high heat. Add pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pasta is al dente (usually about 1 minute less than recommended cooking time on box). Reserve 1 cup pasta water and drain pasta. Return pasta to pot and toss with 1 cup sauce, adding pasta water if necessary to loosen. Serve, topping with meatballs, more sauce, and parmesan cheese.
Notes
The moist smoothness of gelatin balances the lean texture of the chicken, but you can choose to omit. I also find that by not browning the meatballs first, you end up with a more tender result.
The easiest way to grate white bread is to freeze it first, then grate on a box grater or pulse in a food processor.
Read More
- Spaghetti and Meatballs
- Escarole and Parmesan Soup With Chicken Meatballs
- Tsukune (Japanese Chicken Meatballs)
- Slow-Cooker Sticky Thai Meatballs
- Sopa de Albóndigas de Pollo (Nicaraguan Chicken Meatball Soup)
